Illegal Border Trade Thrives

Hewraz Saeed, 29, sits on a small hill drinking some of the alcohol that he is smuggling into Iran across the Iraqi Kurdistan border.

“When I drink I recall the bitter memories of doing this job,” he said, as Bryan Adams’ “Please Forgive Me” plays in the background.

The smuggling of alcohol into Iran has been going on ever since Tehran outlawed alcoholic drinks following the Islamic revolution in 1979.

But since Saddam Hussein’s regime fell from power and Iraq’s borders became more porous, the trade has increased.

There are three official crossing points available to anyone travelling from Iraqi Kurdistan into Iran. But nearly 100 more points are used unofficially by smugglers to cross the border undetected.

Those who lug alcohol across the frontier on their backs are usually able to transport 70 to 80 kilogrammes at a time, earning them around 12 US dollars. Others smuggling on horseback can take between 200 and 250 kg, for which they receive 33 dollars.

Although alcohol is illegal in Iran, many smugglers say border guards turn a blind eye to their operations, and are sometimes paid bribes to let the goods pass.

“When Iranian soldiers seize our alcohol, they either drink it or sell it,” said Serkhel Ismael, 20, who has been working as a truck driver for the past two years smuggling alcohol.

Recently, a group of smugglers paid Iranian border guards a total of 2,500 dollars to allow smugglers to transport 1,000 boxes of alcohol across the frontier, according to one smuggler.

An Iranian border guard, who also spoke on condition of anonymity, said that smuggling was not a big issue compared to the poor conditions under which people live.

“This border is the only way you can get rid of poverty,” he said.

Agreeing at the same time as guiding a group of smugglers, one of his colleagues said the illegal traders don’t hurt anyone.

“Our job is to stop those who want to cause disorder in our country,” he said. “For us, money matters more than blocking the road against alcohol.”

Smuggler Hiwa Shwan, 22, carrying boxes of alcohol on his back, said, “Had it not been for poverty, I would have studied and I would now be a university student.”

Kamal Nawi, 38, recently spent six months in an Iranian prison for smuggling alcohol. He was released a month ago after paying 25,000 dollars, his entire savings, and has already gone back to his old ways.

Food, gas and other items are also smuggled across the border. Anwer Qadir, 34, starts his five-hour journey to the Iranian border at sunset, his horse loaded with 100 kg of milk. The trip will earn him around 20 dollars.

“We work as smugglers because we don’t have any other job to do to make a living for our families,” he said. “Our job is difficult and hard.”

Jamal Penjweni and Frman Abdul-Rahman are IWPR trainees in Sulaimaniyah.