Largely populated by ethnic Tajiks, Gelon sits at 2,336 metres, surrounded by the Hisar range, part of the Pamir-Alay mountain system. It can take up to three hours to cover the 70 kilometres from Uzbkistan’s southern city of Shakhrisabz to reach this high-altitude village.
Largely populated by ethnic Tajiks, Gelon sits at 2,336 metres, surrounded by the Hisar range, part of the Pamir-Alay mountain system. It can take up to three hours to cover the 70 kilometres from Uzbkistan’s southern city of Shakhrisabz to reach this high-altitude village. © Abdulhak Turgunov
A woman carries grass on a donkey through the village. Donkeys and horses are key to the village as narrow streets and rough terrain make it difficult to use cars and other vehicles. Tractors also struggle with the uneven terrain; villagers largely plant their crops by hand and use donkeys and cows for ploughing.
A woman carries grass on a donkey through the village. Donkeys and horses are key to the village as narrow streets and rough terrain make it difficult to use cars and other vehicles. Tractors also struggle with the uneven terrain; villagers largely plant their crops by hand and use donkeys and cows for ploughing. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Tajiik “non” bread, is traditionally baked in the tandoor, a clay oven. Gelon has its own mill, which produces flour from locally grown grains.
Tajiik “non” bread, is traditionally baked in the tandoor, a clay oven. Gelon has its own mill, which produces flour from locally grown grains. © Abdulhak Turgunov
A couple head to the fields on a small tractor, a rarity in the area. The land around Gelon buzzes with life in summer as villagers prepare for the long, harsh winter months. They bring their crops, including the village’s famed potatoes, down to the valley and return with supplies to get through the winter when traveling down to the plain is extremely difficult.
A couple head to the fields on a small tractor, a rarity in the area. The land around Gelon buzzes with life in summer as villagers prepare for the long, harsh winter months. They bring their crops, including the village’s famed potatoes, down to the valley and return with supplies to get through the winter when traveling down to the plain is extremely difficult. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Animal husbandry is central to village life: cattle and flocks are kept on the ground floor of each house and villagers graze them in turns. Carpentry, blacksmithing, pottery and other crafts also support the local economy.
Animal husbandry is central to village life: cattle and flocks are kept on the ground floor of each house and villagers graze them in turns. Carpentry, blacksmithing, pottery and other crafts also support the local economy. © Abdulhak Turgunov
A road sign indicating the way to Gelon is supplemented by a warning about the dangerous road ahead.
A road sign indicating the way to Gelon is supplemented by a warning about the dangerous road ahead. © Abdulhak Turgunov
A boy drives his sheep to pasture in the mountains.
A boy drives his sheep to pasture in the mountains. © Abdulhak Turgunov
One of Gelon’s oldest residents, known as Grandfather Rozakul. In his late 70s, he is an example of the villagers’ longevity as the average life expectancy is 78-80 years, compared to Uzbekistan’s average of 73.8 years.
One of Gelon’s oldest residents, known as Grandfather Rozakul. In his late 70s, he is an example of the villagers’ longevity as the average life expectancy is 78-80 years, compared to Uzbekistan’s average of 73.8 years. © Abdulhak Turgunov
The Hisorak reservoir at 1,800 metres above sea level provides water to the area.
The Hisorak reservoir at 1,800 metres above sea level provides water to the area. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Cows head to the Hisorak reservoir, a key water resource for the area around Gelon. Scorching summers affect the reservoir’s water levels.
Cows head to the Hisorak reservoir, a key water resource for the area around Gelon. Scorching summers affect the reservoir’s water levels. © Abdulhak Turgunov
A woman washes carpets in the street by her house. Carpets are central to Tajik houses and are regularly beaten and scrubbed.
A woman washes carpets in the street by her house. Carpets are central to Tajik houses and are regularly beaten and scrubbed. © Abdulhak Turgunov
One of many local tandoors, the traditional oven made of clay used to baked non, Tajik bread. The village has two schools, a teahouse and a small market. A small museum displays traditional musical instruments and old photographs.
One of many local tandoors, the traditional oven made of clay used to baked non, Tajik bread. The village has two schools, a teahouse and a small market. A small museum displays traditional musical instruments and old photographs. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Men at the entrance of the mosque named after Muhammad Ibn Geloni. The mosque is not only a place for prayers, but a centre for the local community.
Men at the entrance of the mosque named after Muhammad Ibn Geloni. The mosque is not only a place for prayers, but a centre for the local community. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Gelon’s mosque named after Muhammad Ibn Geloni was built in 1848.
Gelon’s mosque named after Muhammad Ibn Geloni was built in 1848. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Village elders outside the mosque. Usto Toichi (left) is Gelon’s well-known carpenter and knife maker.
Village elders outside the mosque. Usto Toichi (left) is Gelon’s well-known carpenter and knife maker. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Residents work on the roof of an old house, near one of the local tandoor bread ovens. In the close-knit community mutual support is important: residents say they all know each other “up to the seventh generation”.
Residents work on the roof of an old house, near one of the local tandoor bread ovens. In the close-knit community mutual support is important: residents say they all know each other “up to the seventh generation”. © Abdulhak Turgunov
A woman pours grain on the roof. Some of the village’s oldest houses have an earthen roof and residents use the surface to dry fruit and grain.
A woman pours grain on the roof. Some of the village’s oldest houses have an earthen roof and residents use the surface to dry fruit and grain. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Gelon’s ambulance. The village has a small clinic, which serves various communities in the area.
Gelon’s ambulance. The village has a small clinic, which serves various communities in the area. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Children learn very early in their life to ride donkeys as the animals are key to life in the village.
Children learn very early in their life to ride donkeys as the animals are key to life in the village. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Nizоm, a driver, in his garden.
Nizоm, a driver, in his garden. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Photo Essay

The Tajik Community on Uzbekistan’s Highlands

Surrounded by the Pamir mountain range, a remote village keeps customs alive.

Largely populated by ethnic Tajiks, Gelon sits at 2,336 metres, surrounded by the Hisar range, part of the Pamir-Alay mountain system. It can take up to three hours to cover the 70 kilometres from Uzbkistan’s southern city of Shakhrisabz to reach this high-altitude village.
Largely populated by ethnic Tajiks, Gelon sits at 2,336 metres, surrounded by the Hisar range, part of the Pamir-Alay mountain system. It can take up to three hours to cover the 70 kilometres from Uzbkistan’s southern city of Shakhrisabz to reach this high-altitude village. © Abdulhak Turgunov
A woman carries grass on a donkey through the village. Donkeys and horses are key to the village as narrow streets and rough terrain make it difficult to use cars and other vehicles. Tractors also struggle with the uneven terrain; villagers largely plant their crops by hand and use donkeys and cows for ploughing.
A woman carries grass on a donkey through the village. Donkeys and horses are key to the village as narrow streets and rough terrain make it difficult to use cars and other vehicles. Tractors also struggle with the uneven terrain; villagers largely plant their crops by hand and use donkeys and cows for ploughing. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Tajiik “non” bread, is traditionally baked in the tandoor, a clay oven. Gelon has its own mill, which produces flour from locally grown grains.
Tajiik “non” bread, is traditionally baked in the tandoor, a clay oven. Gelon has its own mill, which produces flour from locally grown grains. © Abdulhak Turgunov
A couple head to the fields on a small tractor, a rarity in the area. The land around Gelon buzzes with life in summer as villagers prepare for the long, harsh winter months. They bring their crops, including the village’s famed potatoes, down to the valley and return with supplies to get through the winter when traveling down to the plain is extremely difficult.
A couple head to the fields on a small tractor, a rarity in the area. The land around Gelon buzzes with life in summer as villagers prepare for the long, harsh winter months. They bring their crops, including the village’s famed potatoes, down to the valley and return with supplies to get through the winter when traveling down to the plain is extremely difficult. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Animal husbandry is central to village life: cattle and flocks are kept on the ground floor of each house and villagers graze them in turns. Carpentry, blacksmithing, pottery and other crafts also support the local economy.
Animal husbandry is central to village life: cattle and flocks are kept on the ground floor of each house and villagers graze them in turns. Carpentry, blacksmithing, pottery and other crafts also support the local economy. © Abdulhak Turgunov
A road sign indicating the way to Gelon is supplemented by a warning about the dangerous road ahead.
A road sign indicating the way to Gelon is supplemented by a warning about the dangerous road ahead. © Abdulhak Turgunov
A boy drives his sheep to pasture in the mountains.
A boy drives his sheep to pasture in the mountains. © Abdulhak Turgunov
One of Gelon’s oldest residents, known as Grandfather Rozakul. In his late 70s, he is an example of the villagers’ longevity as the average life expectancy is 78-80 years, compared to Uzbekistan’s average of 73.8 years.
One of Gelon’s oldest residents, known as Grandfather Rozakul. In his late 70s, he is an example of the villagers’ longevity as the average life expectancy is 78-80 years, compared to Uzbekistan’s average of 73.8 years. © Abdulhak Turgunov
The Hisorak reservoir at 1,800 metres above sea level provides water to the area.
The Hisorak reservoir at 1,800 metres above sea level provides water to the area. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Cows head to the Hisorak reservoir, a key water resource for the area around Gelon. Scorching summers affect the reservoir’s water levels.
Cows head to the Hisorak reservoir, a key water resource for the area around Gelon. Scorching summers affect the reservoir’s water levels. © Abdulhak Turgunov
A woman washes carpets in the street by her house. Carpets are central to Tajik houses and are regularly beaten and scrubbed.
A woman washes carpets in the street by her house. Carpets are central to Tajik houses and are regularly beaten and scrubbed. © Abdulhak Turgunov
One of many local tandoors, the traditional oven made of clay used to baked non, Tajik bread. The village has two schools, a teahouse and a small market. A small museum displays traditional musical instruments and old photographs.
One of many local tandoors, the traditional oven made of clay used to baked non, Tajik bread. The village has two schools, a teahouse and a small market. A small museum displays traditional musical instruments and old photographs. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Men at the entrance of the mosque named after Muhammad Ibn Geloni. The mosque is not only a place for prayers, but a centre for the local community.
Men at the entrance of the mosque named after Muhammad Ibn Geloni. The mosque is not only a place for prayers, but a centre for the local community. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Gelon’s mosque named after Muhammad Ibn Geloni was built in 1848.
Gelon’s mosque named after Muhammad Ibn Geloni was built in 1848. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Village elders outside the mosque. Usto Toichi (left) is Gelon’s well-known carpenter and knife maker.
Village elders outside the mosque. Usto Toichi (left) is Gelon’s well-known carpenter and knife maker. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Residents work on the roof of an old house, near one of the local tandoor bread ovens. In the close-knit community mutual support is important: residents say they all know each other “up to the seventh generation”.
Residents work on the roof of an old house, near one of the local tandoor bread ovens. In the close-knit community mutual support is important: residents say they all know each other “up to the seventh generation”. © Abdulhak Turgunov
A woman pours grain on the roof. Some of the village’s oldest houses have an earthen roof and residents use the surface to dry fruit and grain.
A woman pours grain on the roof. Some of the village’s oldest houses have an earthen roof and residents use the surface to dry fruit and grain. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Gelon’s ambulance. The village has a small clinic, which serves various communities in the area.
Gelon’s ambulance. The village has a small clinic, which serves various communities in the area. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Children learn very early in their life to ride donkeys as the animals are key to life in the village.
Children learn very early in their life to ride donkeys as the animals are key to life in the village. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Nizоm, a driver, in his garden.
Nizоm, a driver, in his garden. © Abdulhak Turgunov
Tuesday, 17 October, 2023
Tuesday, 17 October, 2023

The village of Gelon is as charming as it is inaccessible. Largely populated by ethnic Tajiks, the kishlak (village), sits at 2,336 metres above sea level in Uzbekistan’s south, surrounded by the majestic mountains of the Hissar range. 

The 4,083-metre Khazret Sultan Peak, Uzbekistan’s highest, towers over the area. Tajikistan is on the other side of the imposing Pamir mountain system and until 2018 the area was off-limits to foreign tourists due to its special border status.

It can take up to three hours to cover the 70 kilometres from Uzbekistan’s southern city of Shakhrisabz to reach the high-altitude village.

The village dates back to the fourteenth century when Tajiks settled among the Pamir mountains to flee persecution from Genghis Khan’s Mongol troops. Due to its remoteness, residents have maintained traditional Tajik customs, including in the structure of the houses and cuisine. Dishes that cannot be found across Uzbekistan include ugro osh, chopped and fried noodles cooked with meat and tubers like potatoes and turnips. 

In summer, Gelon enjoys a freshness unknown to the plains where sultry heat reigns well into September. By November, however, winter has arrived on the highlands and will remain until early May.

All photos by Abdulak Turgonov.

This publication was prepared under the "Amplify, Verify, Engage (AVE) Project" implemented with the financial support of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Norway.

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Uzbekistan, Tajikistan
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